Everything changes on the Loop Rd. It is nature unleashed. Happiness goes up and stress goes down. This is the Everglades and I am behind the swamp curtain. Here I can meld with nature, sit quietly with alligators and soak in the beauty of chaos.
Passage through the swamp curtain is always accompanied by a sense of anticipation. What will nature reveal? Will I make any new friends? Will I be able to capture the essence? My last visit started with a wonderful interlude that spoke of more to come. At one of the fishing holes, I came upon Johnny and his granddaughter Crystal. Johnny filled a bucket with fish as we chatted about life, the Loop Rd and fishing. He then told the story of his birth. Johnny’s mother was an avid fisherwoman who was also due any minute. She told her midwife she was headed out to Fishing Creek. In no uncertain terms the midwife told Johnny’s mother it was a bad idea. She insisted however and the midwife decided to go along. It’s a good thing because Johnny was born that very day on the banks of Fishing Creek. He has been fishing ever since.
It was difficult to tear myself away from this bubble of goodness, but it was time to head to my Everglades home away from home, Clyde Butcher Big Cypress Gallery. Clyde Butcher is a well-known Everglades photographer whose large format black and white photography is gorgeous and inspiring. When I first started traveling to the Everglades when Earl went north, I stopped in to check out his work. Jaw dropping.
The Gallery has other offerings as well. From my first time in the Everglades, I wanted to hike in the swamp but no way was I doing that on my own. Was very happy to learn they offer swamp walks on the 14 acre property plus two accommodations, the cottage and the bungalow. The people are wonderful, the swamp walks fun, and it makes a great home base.
Big Mama and her babies live in the pond next to the cottage and that is always my first stop. I love baby alligators. Interestingly when hatchlings are about 2 years old mothers chase them away as they are now a threat to the next batch of eggs. Sadly no Big Mama and no babies. I figured the older babies had moved on.
The next day I was walking along the edge and there was a splash. I stopped dead in my tracks. Deep settling breaths. Could it be? A baby alligator crawled back up the slope at my feet. I reckon that was permission so down on my belly I went. Anytime a creature hangs out with me for an extended shoot, they enter the new friend category and I name them. Please meet Abner. Note my preference would have been to hold the camera a bit lower however that pesky leaf was in the way. Abner allowed me to try every angle imaginable but the side on shot is my favorite.
Later at almost the same spot, I met the handsome Hamilton, a curious Great Blue Heron who literally posed for the camera as I sat close by. The light was kind to both of us as a sunray broke through the swamp canopy and perfectly spotlighted Hamilton. This creates the ideal scenario for in camera lowkey portraits that need very little adjustment in post.
I had arranged for a sunrise pole boat ride with Everglades Adventure Tours. This is a quiet pleasant way to glide though the swamp. There was only one problem, it was uncommonly cold at 48 degrees. Even though we had on every layer possible, we were freezing. The upside is the elusive smoke on the water created on a chilly morning. In this shot, a sun ray beautifully lit a strip of steam.
Teenage alligators are wonderful due to their giant eyes. While I really like this shot, it would be even more dramatic if I had been comfortable holding the camera at water level. It will happen next time.
While we did not see a ton of birds, the way the light hit the red eye of this night heron made the trip worth every cold minute.
I am always in search of shots that capture the patterns and magic in swamp chaos.
While there is much chaos in the swamp, I love noticing the small touches of beauty the swamp delivers.
Another morning I visited Marsh Trail in search of the white pelicans. Some were in residence but sadly they were in the far reaches of the lake and had to crop this far too much.
Meanwhile I practiced birds in flight. I dealt with this seriously underexposed but cool white pelican shot by blowing out the sky for a high key look.
While my intent was to practice technique rather than create wall worthy photos, I do like the one above.
I always spend plenty of time on the Loop Rd. At one spot, another photographer pointed out “the” shot, a beautiful preening great white egret. While he was shooting, I had a wander and noticed this green heron perched in classic swamp. For me, this was not only “the” shot of this spot but perhaps of the trip. I can’t decide which I like best the environmental shot that tells a bigger story of the swamp or the cropped in portrait framed by a literal swamp curtain. What do you think?
One can usually find alligators on the Loop Rd, even when its freezing. I like how this alligator adorned itself in the vegetation. The shot below is about alligator reflections and the possibilities if green gets on your nerves.
There are usually plenty of birds as well on the Loop Rd. This tricolored heron hung around just long enough for a portrait.
Sweet Water is an area on the Loop Rd that has delivered many great moments but has been oddly devoid of wildlife recently. I figured I would settle in for a good while over lunch to see what might develop. Just as I sat down a pickup truck parked on the bridge (no one does that), music blaring. They started unloading a grill. Things got louder. This was not a Johnny and Crystal moment, they made no attempt to blend with the environment and I wondered if I had found the reason things had changed for the worse at Sweet Water.
In addition several adult alligators had to be put down recently because people fed them. Alligators view humans as food if people are stupid enough to do this and they could potentially attack the next human they see. Hopefully folks will remember that we are guests behind the swamp curtain and behave accordingly.
Meanwhile, I left the pickup in my rearview mirror to find one of the many excellent spots for a relaxing lunch, enjoy the light on the cypress and perhaps some wildlife. This great white egret stared intently down her beak. Will we see you again she said? Most definitely Mrs. Egret. Thank you so much for welcoming me in your home.
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