Smith Island is a wonderful bit of quirk on the Chesapeake Bay. The last inhabited island chain in Maryland is home to delightful personalities, abundant wildlife and Smith Island Cake. A place where stark beauty competes with decay, isolation is tempered by community and a long history does not guarantee a successful future. A visit is a special gift.
We learned just how special when we joined renowned local photographer Jay Fleming for his Smith Island photography workshop in June 2022 and again in June 2023. As his home away from home, Jay ensures folks experience the unique culture while offering delicious Smith Island food and ample photographic opportunities.
Smith Island life revolves around the Chesapeake Bay as did ours. While a 3:45 AM alarm is harsh, lack of sleep is a small price to pay to photograph the crabbers at dawn. Jay captained his boat for optimal compositions as we clicked away, hoping for a wall worthy photo that captures the essence of waterman culture. A special treat is the humorous banter between the crabbers over the radio. The Smith Island dialect reminds us that while only 12 miles from the mainland by boat, this three-by-five mile island chain is a world away. In 2022 we had a beautiful sunrise. In 2023 we experienced storm skies and a short window of incredible light.
In search of baby birds, we visited several rookeries located on nearby uninhabited islands. We found pelican, gull and cormorant babies but must admit we were equally intrigued by the curious and, at times, disturbing behavior at the rookeries.
I wish I could talk “bird” to ask a few questions. To the gulls – why do you relentlessly dive bomb the pelicans? The loud definitive snap of a pelican beak leaves no doubt that it could break your leg. Why are your nests at the water’s edge where a high tide can sweep away the eggs? Does it hurt when you swallow a whole baby cormorant and then regurgitate it for your baby? I guess it is the natural way of things for you to steal cormorant eggs, but is there really nothing else to eat?
Gull Nest at the Water’s Edge
To the pelicans – why did you yell at the gull baby and then grab its beak? A lecture perhaps? Don’t grow up annoying like your parents? It is curious that when you have a chance to do some gull damage, you hold back. Are you and the gull fighting or playing? Are the unguarded gull eggs at the water’s edge too nasty to eat? I would especially like to share how enjoyable it was to watch the youngsters play. We could all benefit from a bit more unbridled play.
Last year we visited a nesting area for egrets. Here are a couple adorable gangly teenagers.
Ospreys are synonymous with the Chesapeake Bay and Smith Island is no exception. We also saw a juvenile little blue heron, a good number of oyster catchers and yellow crowned night herons.
After early morning shoots, we were treated to an incredible Smith Island breakfast at Mary Ada Marshall’s home. Mary Ada is as unique as Smith Island and like so many on the island, she is an excellent cook. Jay and Mary Ada are rumored to be working on a cookbook. The world will be a happier place when that happens.
We learned how to bake a Smith Island Cake with Donna and Phil Evans one rainy afternoon. What a wonderful laughter filled interlude. Below is a photo of Donna before the final icing was added.
The origin of the 8-to-10-layer Smith Island Cake is a mystery but the women on the island will tell you they learned from their grandmothers who learned from theirs. Smith Island Cake has evolved into a cultural icon so much so that it was designated Maryland’s State Dessert in 2008. Mary Ada Marshall, a native Smith Islander, was instrumental in this process. I highly recommend listening to her 2009 interview.
While other companies claim to sell authentic Smith Island Cake, the real deal is made on the island with a dash of Smith Island magic. Kathey and Darren Jones the owners of Smith Island Bakery will ship cakes anywhere in the US as will The Cake Lady, Mary Ada Marshall. For the bakers who would like to give it a go, Mary Ada provides instructions in this video.
Mark Kitching, a local waterman, stepped us through the life of a crab. Below are a number of photos of Mark doing his thing.
We were reminded of the challenges of island life when we came across this crew fixing storm damaged electric lines.
Boating and walking around the islands reveal how vulnerable Smith Island is to the vagaries of nature. The high tides are higher causing yards and streets to flood. Property maintenance is spotty and money is tight. In some areas, nature is reclaiming its own as a result. The population is declining as the watermen’s way of life is threatened by regulation, reduced crab populations and high costs. The recent closure of the elementary school is concerning. One can only wonder what will become of this treasure.
There are glimmers of hope, however. Covid resulted in a surge of home sales bringing new residents and investment. Smith Island United is an organization formed in 2013 dedicated to the preservation of the island and its Chesapeake Bay traditions. Their efforts have resulted in significant funding to bolster Smith Island against high water, harsh weather and government buyouts. Jay Fleming’s efforts and exceptional photography bring folks to the island and raise awareness of Smith Island, its people and traditions. We can all do a little something to support Smith Islanders’ way of life. It is worth it.
While it is fortunate that funding has found its way to Smith Island, it’s people just living their lives that keep a place real. May Smith Island always be real.
Details
- To gain a deeper understanding of Smith Island, consider visiting the Smith Island United’s website which includes the Smith Island Vision Plan. An excerpt: “In many ways, Smith Island is a profound cultural success story. The legacy of the watermen’s way of life is still alive today and is the backbone of the community’s identity. The residents are part of a tightly knit community that cares for one another and maintains a high quality of life on an island where there is no law enforcement and few social services.”
- The Snapshot of Smith Island above is from the Smith Island United website which I updated with 2020 census data. It is interesting to compare the data above to the original graphic on page 1 of the Vision Plan which included 2010 census data. The population decreased from 276 to 238 in ten years and the median age increased from 58 to 70. Hopefully the next ten years will show a reversal in these trends.
- The Smith Island Cultural Center and Museum offers historical details of Smith Island.
- Many thanks to Jay Fleming for a wonderful introduction to Smith Island. For more information on his workshops and outstanding work, please visit Jay’s website.
- We stayed at Island Time Bed and Breakfast. It was excellent.
- For more photography articles please visit the Photography tab.